(an SA Blog Beta post from Your Correspondent)
Proposed Tags: Western Cape, Garden Route, Overberg, Accommodation
Part One – Getting to Greyton, and Where to Stay
The charms of rural life in the Western Cape are most evident in the tiny town of Greyton, two hours’ drive from Cape Town along the beautiful Garden Route. Horses and cattle roam freely down the quiet streets and lanes (eating residents’ gardens – see below); bohemian bric-a-brac and antique shops open each day, including Sunday, for leisurely strollings-through; one cafe claims to make the best cappuccino in Africa; and there’s a very pleasant day hike up into the foothills.
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Greyton is the perfect place for a self-catering weekend, because the restaurants are few, usually fully-booked, and serve what can only be called average fare. Anna’s Accommodation is recommended in this regard. Anna has two cottages with fully-equipped kitchens (note: there are no ovens, but check Part Two of this Serial Adventure for an idea on how to improvise).
The Mark’s Cottage is the nicer of the two – it’s freestanding, with a pretty little courtyard, and two double beds hidden away in curtained-off nooks. Anna and her husband built the cottage using “straw bale” construction – a new facet in architecture for Your Correspondent, though the building method is hundreds of years old (and Your Correspondent’s father is, erm, an architect).
When we arrived in Greyton last weekend, the talk of the town centred on a one-week War of the Cows and Roses, which the roses lost. Apparently, a resident’s prize-winning rose garden was eaten by a roaming cow – which was subsequently beaten back down the road with violent complaints and a stick. A zealous animal lover witnessed the cow’s scolding, and called in the animal authorities. A bitter war of words ensued, a pro-cow mural was painted and then defaced with anti-cow graffiti, and now the town of Greyton is quiet again.
Tomorrow: coq au vin on the braai.